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Gold cloak ornament attached to both sides of the abaya. Made for the bride on her wedding day and may be part of her dowry. Doha circa 1951
20th century
Object Name: Cloak ornament
Period: 20th century
Date: 1900-1999
Provenance: Qatar
Dimensions: 38cmx2.62cmx2.62cm, weight:174g
Medium: gold,enamel
Registration Number: QNM.2014.282.11AB
Place Of Discovery/Findspot:  Qatar
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Each amilah is an ornamented chain. At the top of the chain is a hook decorated with a star shape. Below the hook is a length of chain, with a small ball. The central part of the amilah consists of three large circular-shaped ornaments, connected by chain links and a ball between each circular-shaped ornament. Beneath the lowest is a link, from which hangs a group of five chains. Each chain terminates with a ball and a decoration.

Ornaments that decorate the outer cloak are the most important. The root of the plural amilah is amayil. The name given to the handiwork in golden silk thread on the borders of a cloak. The term amliyyah also refers to the moulding method used to make bulburous ornaments along the chain. A gold amilah is made specifically for a bridal cloak which is formed of soft cotton, elaborately decorated, embroidered and embossed with threads called zari. The gold amilah ornament placed on the cloak is part of the bride's dowry. The gold ornament may be plain or have stone or pearl inlay. The balls are made up of hollow bottom and top halves, seamed at the center, and are enamelled in green, red, periwinkle blue, and buff colors. The hook element is enamelled in red and green.
HISTORICAL CONTEXT QATAR
The waters of the Arabian Gulf surround the Qatar Peninsula on all sides except the south, where it connects by land to the Arabian Peninsula. The people of Qatar have been sharing the land, natural resources and the experiences they have gained from dealing with the environment for hundreds of years. With the diversity of lifestyles in terms of time and space, they moved easily and unimpeded between land and sea, for trade, cattle herding, pearl diving, fishing, and fishing on land at different times throughout the year. This distinguished relationship between humans and the environment has been reflected in the unity of Qatari society, including the exchange of experiences and anecdotes, and the trade in available goods.

Life in the Qatar Peninsula has long been characterized by a close connection between the coastal and mainland regions, with some land-based tribes spending many months during the year in coastal cities, setting up semi-permanent residences from which to go pearl diving and fishing. Similarly, the inhabitants of the coastal areas occasionally moved to the mainland in the winter to graze their livestock. This sharing of diverse resources and natural environments has contributed to the creation of a unique community in Qatar
HISTORICAL CONTEXT - REGION/GULF/WORLD
The presence of British, French and Dutch trading companies in the Gulf from the early 1600s brought uncertainty to the region, with unstable alliances and intense competition over trade routes. As trade flourished, however, the strength of the Arab tribes increased. Many Arab tribes moved from the interior of the Arabian Peninsula to Qatar, and by the 18th and 19th centuries, most of the major towns of the Gulf were founded. Several towns flourished on the Qatari coast, including Huwailah, Khor Hassan, Fuwairat, Ruwaida, Freiha, Al Bidda and Doha. The most notable was Al Zubara which became a hub for the Gulf pearl trade.
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