A mid 19th century multi gem-set, gold and silver butterfly brooch seen from the side, wings folded, the body and thorax formed of two Baroque pearls, the curved gold antennae with each with a ruby collet terminal, echoing the cabochon ruby eye, and legs are of twisted gold wire, the markings of the openwork wings are represented by tapering lines of diamonds, rubies and emeralds, curving round into three diamond circles each centred on a ruby, the lowest line, above the pearl is set with diamonds and emeralds only, terminating in a collet-set diamond.
The theme of insect jewellery has inspired jewellers since antiquity and reached a height of popularity during the Victorian period, from the 1860s to the 1890s. More than beetles, spiders, bees, moths and dragonflies the butterfly was the favourite, interpreted in a huge range of precious and semi-precious gems. Here the brilliant colours of the wings have been captured by the glowing colours of the rubies and emeralds which are enhanced by the contrast with the glittering white diamonds, and the silvery sheen of the pearl. Shown from this angle, as if perched on a flower, the butterfly would look particularly well pinned to the hair for evening wear and or on a daytime hat .