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Metal applicator stick used to apply 'kohl', a popular form of eye make-up used in Murwab
Early Islamic Period
Object Name: Kohl applicator
Period: Early Islamic Period
Date: 9th century
Provenance: Mesopotamia or Iran
Dimensions: 13.4 cm length; 0.48 cm diam.; 0.51 cm centre diam.
Medium: copper alloy
Registration Number: ARC.1959.21.192
Place Of Discovery/Findspot:  Murwab
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This thin cylindrical stick made of copper alloy was used to apply eye make-up called kohl. It has a bulge in the centre allowing the user to hold it firmly. A type of powder, Khol would be applied to the inner edge of the eyelids for aesthetic reasons, but also helped to prevent eye infections due to its medicinal properties.

Popular since Pharaonic Egypt (3rd millennium BCE), kohl was used by men, women and children and its use continued into the early Islamic era. The best varieties come from Iran. Khol is made from many different recipes, often handed down over generations through families and health practitioners. It could be made from metallic powder with medicinal properties, including lead and antimony, with animal fat, burnt wood and bitumen. By varying the ingredients, it was possible to create a variety of colours ranging from deep black to dark blue, dark red, purple and even shades of yellow.

Testament to a flourishing trade network, more than half a dozen examples of kohl sticks have been found in excavations of the 9th-century houses in Murwab, northwest Qatar.
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Excavation
HISTORICAL CONTEXT QATAR
Early Islamic period 622–1000 CE

In 628 CE, the inhabitants of the administrative district of Al Hajar, which included the geographical area of present-day Bahrain, Al-Hasa in eastern Saudi Arabia and Qatar, joined the new religion of Islam. The territory of Qatar was occupied mainly by two tribal groups, the Tamim and the Abd al-Qays.

During the early Abbasid period Qatar was famous, even at the court of Baghdad, for its red-dyed woollen coats, horse breeding and pearls. The entire population of the region benefited greatly from the maritime traffic passing through the Gulf, from Basra to China via India and Southeast Asia, as demonstrated by the large number of archaeological sites particularly in the northern region of Qatar.
HISTORICAL CONTEXT - REGION/GULF/WORLD
Islam, both a religion and a civilisation, was born from the revelation to the Prophet Muhammad of a new monotheism and, at the same time, the foundation of the first state in Arabia. In 622, the Prophet's emigration (‘Hegira’ in Arabic) from Mecca to Medina marked the beginning of the Muslim calendar. By 632 when the Prophet died, Arabia was unified, and the new religion had taken hold throughout the Peninsula.

The great Meccan family of the Umayyads established a hereditary dynasty (661–750). The Umayyads set up their capital outside Arabia, in Damascus, and put in place the tools of imperial power: standardisation of Arabic writing; Arabisation of the administration; monetary reform; unification of weights and measures, etc. The Umayyad caliphate completed the first wave of Islamic conquests.

In 750, the empire reached its maximum expansion for three centuries, from Narbonne in France to Samarkand in Central Asia and Multan in Pakistan. The Abbasids, the second dynasty, asserted their rights as relatives of the Prophet and took over the Empire. In 762, the Abbasids moved the centre of gravity of the caliphate eastwards and founded a new capital, Baghdad, on the lands of the former Persian Empire. By the 9th century, the city had reached the dimensions of Rome or Constantinople at their peak.
PUBLICATIONS AND RESEARCH
GUERIN, A. & NA’IMI, F., 2010, "Preliminary pottery study: Murwab horizon in progress, ninth century AD, Qatar." in Proceedings of the Seminar for Arabian Studies, Archaeopress, Oxford, vol. 40, pp. 17–34.

GUERIN, A. & NA’IMI, F., 2009, "Territory and settlement patterns during the Abbasid period (ninth century AD): the village of Murwab (Qatar)," in Proceedings of the Seminar for Arabian Studies, Archaeopress, Oxford, vol. 39, pp. 181–196.

GUERIN, A., 1994, “Majlis et processus de sédentarisation. Étude ethnoarchéologique au Qatar,” in Archéologie Islamique 4, pp. 177–197.

HARDY-GUILBERT, Cl., 1991, "Dix ans de recherche archéologique sur la période islamique dans le Golfe (1977-1987), Bilans et perspectives," in Y. Ragib (ed.), Documents de l’Islam médiéval: Nouvelles perspectives de recherche, Institut Français d\'Archéologie Orientale & CNRS, TAEI 29, pp. 134–140, fig. 4–8.

HARDY-GUILBERT, Cl., 1984, "Fouilles archéologiques a Murwab, Qatar," in R. Boucharlat et J.-F. Salles (eds.), Arabie Orientale, Mésopotamie et Iran méridional: De l’Age du Fer au début de la période islamique, ERC 37, Paris, pp. 169–188.

KNUTH, E., 2017, "An Early Islamic fort and settlement at Murwab,” in F. Hojlund (ed.), Danish Archaeological Investigations in Qatar 1956-1974, Qatar Museum Authority and Moesgaard Museum, Jutland Archaeological Society Publications, vol. 97, pp. 83–98.
LOCATE ON QATAR MAP
Murwab